Missing Items -- Where is the tractor located/how far away is it? Are there any item that are missing like spark plug shields, PTO shields, brake pedal latches, radiator shutter, radiator overflow tube, clutch pulley cover, air cleaner parts, hub caps, or fuel tank caps. These seemingly small items count up fast!
What shape is the drawbar & seat in? Some have combine tires, has the tractor been used as a puller?
Operational Tractor -- What kind of oil pressure does it have? What about the cooling system in terms of overheating or loss of coolant? Does it ever start hard? Who rebuilt the carburetor? Does it smoke after it idles for a spell, or smoke under a load? Does the engine turn over real easy or do you sense a good compression build up? How do you know you have a good magneto other than it runs, or will bite the stuffin' out of you?
Drive the tractor forward in every gear -- also operate tractor in reverse gear. Listen for noises during shifting and driving that may indicate gears with teeth missing.
How do the brakes work? Are they fairly okay or is there sideways play or "wobble" in the pedals? Are the weep holes under the rear axle housing open? Check for a weather seal (boot) on the gear shift lever -- lack of which indicates water most likely in transmission/differential cavity.
Does the clutch lever have excessive play, either sideways or to & fro? Does the clutch snap in and out with a pressure between 40 & 80 pounds applied at its end? Super excessive force required indicates need for a costly clutch overhaul.
If tractor has a hydraulic pump -- is the pump handle free? Do you perceive any "gear noise" from the pump when the tractor is running?
Leaks -- coolant, fuel, or lubricants -- How about oil leaks under the engine, under the transmission & differential? Is there some evidence of oil leaking anywhere? Are there signs of RTV (Silicon Rubber) having been used as gasketing anywhere on the engine/transmission/differential region of the main case? This spells trouble, especially if found at the oil pump! Also, a compression check (assuming the seller grants access) should reflect general condition of the basic engine.
Freeze damage -- Look real close for casting freeze cracks. They can be almost anywhere on the Model "H" tractor, even along the belly of the main case because a rotted transmisision shifter boot can let a boat load of water into the transmission/differential cavity. Examine the cylinder block along the top and sides, check the lower part of the cylinder head along wth the lower water pipe if it is cast. Radiator tanks are a "must check" point, particularly the lower tank. If tractor's cooling system is not holding coolant, find out why?
Bearings & Bushings -- Bearings, while not that costly in the overall scheme of restoration, if bad can tell you much of the tractor's condition. Disengage the clutch & firmly grasp the belt pulley; try moving it up & down. Any perceived motion is too much and suggest a worn out bearing and probably the bushing as well. The same technique can be applied to the power shaft, flywheel (if handstart), fan, or steering wheel. Stand at the side of the tractor, grasp the top of a rear wheel, then push & pull; If there is sideways motion and it is accompanied by a clunking sound within the axle housing, major rework of the rear axles assemblies is to be expected. Such motion suggests a lack of bearing load adjustment and/or bad bearings -- regarless of the reason, the rear main seals must be renewed.
Electric Start Tractors -- If the tractor has electric starting and lighting, this system should be evaluated for performance of the lights, charging system & starting. How the starter engages -- listen for grinding noises or for any noise indicative of missing gear teeth during start. A quick inspection of the wiring can be enlightening! A fully functional electrical system is a plus, especially if still in its original configuration of 6-volt, positive ground!
Is the steering wheel okay or at least reparable? A few voids in the steering wheel can be worked. If all the bakelite is gone, a replacement is in store. Is it hard to turn the steering wheel? Steering wheel play (backlash) greater than 1-1/2" could be costly to overcome in terms of a worn sector gear or worm gear, eccentric bushing wear in relation to the vertical spindle shaft, or wear between the eccentric bushing and pedestal casting steering? Defective bearings may also be a "partial" cause. When it comes to steering, it is those "partial" causes that take your money!
Governor-Fan Shaft Gears -- Gear backlash of anything under 2-inches is to be expected -- at fan blade tip? Greater amounts may suggest unserviceable spiral-bevel gears -- over $400 a matched pair! Grief here may also show up as high gear noise in the governor during engine operation.
Sheet Metal -- How about the condition of thehood and grilles? Rusted through places spell high costs for you during renewal. 'Not many folks around anymore who can weld sheet metal successfully. For hood, there are not after-market sources at this writing (6-10-06). Is the medallion (nose cone) missing, or severely cracked & bent? After-market grilles are available, but not as heavy in gauge as originals. Grille screen sections can be repaired or replaced, but missing ribs or severe damage can be a body work challenge. The fuel tank's condition is something to make note of too. And if the tractor has serviceable (or reparable) fenders, now that's a plus.
Wheels & Tires -- And then there is the tires & wheels -- another biggie! News rear tires & tubes can take a $600 bill out of your pocket quicker than greased lightning! Wheels -- look for salt damage around the valve stem regions, or there may be massive erosion anywhere along the rim. These spell trouble & cost to recover, and often bring need for some redesign, or at least, added creativity. Axles and hubs -- check rear wheel taper locks and axles shafts for damage. And if those rears haven't been moved since Heaven knows when, they too can be a bear!
Things You Cannot See -- As reflected in part above, some real insight can be gained about the tractor by listening! If this is your first time buying a JD-H tractor, you may be wise to take someone with you who is savvy on these gems. And if you are buying a non-runner, expect a 65-year old tractor to be pretty well worn out!
Experimentor Special -- Aside from being a tractor that is 60 - 67 years old and having been across the field many times, you may also be victim of someone else's experimentation, and there are few hints of this affliction other than to learn of them after the purchase! If you see something unusual such as RTV around the oil pump, be advised some goofy thing took place & the person really didn't know what else to do -- thus applied some RTV & buttoned it up! And so be on the lookout for the unusual.
Manuals & Maintenance Records -- A final thought! Ask the seller for maintenance records, receipts, etc. AND for the tractor's manuals, especially the operator's manual and the service manual! Most people do not throw these things away. Now, if he does not have the manuals, that tells you a BUNCH! If he performed any work on it at all with NO MANUALS, there is a better-than-even chance the work isn't done right. ++++